Trash or Treasure?

One man's trash is another man's treasure, right? I have experienced this to be true in a multitude of ways, most frequently regarding pre-owned shoes. I have been a shoe guy for as long as I can remember (my family can certainly attest): collecting, admiring, pairing outfits, since probably middle school. When I was young I of course liked sneakers, and as I got older my taste became a little more refined as formal occasions with more sophisticated attire became a more regular occurrence. Now, dress shoes are my thing, but I didn't really dive in until about two years ago when a close friend shared his most prized possession with me, his shoe closet. I always thought I had “nice” shoes because they looked cool, seemed relatively expensive, etc. But, after this experience and doing some research about the shoe industry at large, I realized how subpar and even a little ignorant my previous shoe collection was. Ignorant may not seem like the right word for a shoe collection, but I can explain...

There are some things you should know about most shoes today and the fashion industry in general. First off, in the same way it has for clothing, accessories, and more, fast fashion has taken over the shoe industry. This generally means that large shoe manufacturers are jumping on the latest trends and producing as much as they possibly can, with extremely cheap materials to generate as many sales as possible. This is without regard for customer satisfaction, the environment, or the craftsmanship associated with shoe making.

Secondly, cheap materials typically equate to non-durable shoes, which reduces their useful life and increases the years they sit in a landfill (not biodegrading) after they are disposed of. Many shoes today are made of plastic disguised as leather, which not only does not age well, but also doesn't allow for any sort of maintenance as they wear. So what happens is, when the soles wear out, or the bookbinder leather cracks, the shoes are as good as trash. They then make their way to the landfill where they rest for eternity. And, as you may know, the timeline within which this process occurs is about 1-1.5 years of consistent wearing. Then, you do exactly what the shoe manufacturer wants you to do: you buy another pair of shoes, and feed the vicious cycle.

Fortunately for all of us, fast fashion footwear is not the only option. There are still dozens of shoe makers across the globe that have made shoes the same way for hundreds of years. The difference is that quality shoes are made with genuine leather that not only ages beautifully, but last for years if maintained properly. Quality shoes are also constructed such that when component parts begin to wear, like say the top lift on your heel or the ball of your sole, you can take them to a cobbler to re-heel or re-sole, and the shoes are as good as new; adding incremental years to their useful life. I have heard of people successfully maintaining shoes for upwards of twenty years! And at that point, if it’s time to go, you dispose of them without having to worry about them living on for the rest of time since they are essentially made from raw materials rather than manufactured plastics.

Now, I know that if I gave you links to some of my favorite shoemaker’s websites, you’d respond saying, “there’s no way I would pay that much for a pair of shoes.” But, if you think about it, given the fast fashion timeline discussed previously, in a few years time, you continually do spend that much on footwear through time. At most quality shoe price points you earn back your investment in 3-5 years time, and then the years to follow are fully incremental. Additionally, there is no need to worry about the materials outliving the style; shoe fashion and even traditional shoe making hasn't changed for decades - black cap toe oxfords are still the most formal pair a person can wear!

You also don't need to buy your shoes new, hence my treasure hunt through “trash.” To more cost effectively build my collection I began browsing consignment platforms to find great deals on slightly used shoes that need a little work, but can be brought back to life to be basically as good as new. I’ve both fully, and partially, restored handfuls of shoes at this point: for myself, and for friends and family. This particular hobby has perhaps become a little too intense (as my wife would most likely claim) and my shoe rack is filling up fast. Because of this, I’ve actually shifted to try and sell a few pairs. I discuss my journey through this process at length in the D.III Collection section of my website - check it out here.

To sum everything up, my message is this: treasure and value don't always come from new, high cost, trendy possessions. Treasure is usually representative of things that have value due to some sort of lost art, or made from materials that have actual tangible value. For the sake of craftsmanship and the sustainability of our planet, perhaps resetting our minds with a focus on true treasure is what we all need to guide us back to basics.

Hope you enjoyed the week end read,

Dionisio III

P.s. This is one of my favorite topics to talk about, so you can expect me to touch on it further in the future. In the meantime, if your interest is piqued and you’d like to discuss or have questions, please feel free to reach out!